Tongue And Groove Router Bits

V Groove Router Bit | eBay

Tongue And Groove Router Bits News:

Joinery Router Bits, Router Bits, Routers and Accessories – Rockler

45 Lock Miter Router Bit, Freud Adjustable Tongue & Groove Bit Set and more in Joinery Router Bits, Router Bits, Routers and Accessories on Rockler

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Diablo 3/8 in. Carbide Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set …

The Diablo 3/8 in. Carbide Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set features bits constructed from high-density carbide and titanium for long-lasting use.

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tongue groove router bit | eBay – Electronics, Cars, Fashion …

Find great deals on eBay for tongue groove router bit and tongue & groove router bit set. Shop with confidence.

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Diablo 3/8 in. Carbide Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set …

The Diablo 3/8 in. Carbide Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set features bits constructed from high-density carbide and titanium for long-lasting use.

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Freud 99-036 Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set, 1/2-Inch …

Freud 99-036 Adjustable Tongue and Groove Router Bit Set, 1/2-Inch Shank

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Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood – Cabinetmaking Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld – Part 1

Part 1 – Beautiful cabinetry doesn't have to be difficult. From face frame to hardware installation, Marc covers it all! Marc Sommerfeld's Tongue & Groove Ca…


SpareChange asked Anyone ever use a router to make pine “V” tongue and groove paneling?

How’d you do it and how did it come out?

And got the following answer:

I do a LOT of wood work. Cabinets, frames, doors etc and while I have never made the paneling you are asking about I wouldn’t hesitate to do so.

The secret to this sort of activity is to have a big router table. If the boards are not supported there will be little imperfections in your work. And a nice supply of scrap to make test cuts on is a necessity as well.

The second thing to do is PLAN the work. A few minutes here will save hours and dollars in wasted time and destroyed material. Decide which cuts you must make and in what order you must make them. Then make the first setup and do all the boards in that setup. Don’t forget to make the cuts on your scrap pieces as well. That little suggestion right there is worth a nice chunk of change. After all the material has the first pass, change to the second setup and make all those cuts. Don’t try to mill one or two boards all the way through then come back a duplicate those settings. No matter how carefully you are differences will be apparent.

If I can help further on this contact me through my profile. We can get as specific as you like, up to and including how to make a router table that will do the job and what router bits might work best for you.

Good luck and let me know how it works out.

little_bruises asked I want to start making my own stretcher frames for canvas – what kind of mitre box or saw do I need?

And got the following answer:

If you want to make mitred frames, any mitre box with a 45 degree slot and a Tenon Saw will do.

To replicate those factory made canvas stretchers (the interlocking kind)… you would need a a router with a ‘tongue and groove’ router bit, and a router table. The router would be a good option because you could also use it to create a ‘lip’ on the frame so that the canvas clears the frame right to the very edge.

joe asked I am making a trade show floor out of 3/4 FRT plywood. This wood does not come in tongue and groove. ?

My question is can anyone tell me the correct way to cut tongues and grooves into pieces of plywood with a router? I am stuck. Thanks

And got the following answer:

Easiest way is to use a rabbeting bit with a bearing. For the tongue side, take a cut along the top, then again along the bottom, leaving just a little less than the height of the cutter. Then for the groove, Set the height carefully to center it on the edge of the sheet. Run the router along the edge and you are done. Hope this helps.

Kristin C asked Can anyone recommend a tongue and groove router bit for hardwood flooring?

I’m putting in hardwood flooring with a border of contrasting strip flooring. To ensure proper setback from the wall and to make a solid transition in places where the border runs perpendicular to the plank flooring field, I believe I need to use a router table to cut the tongue and groove back into the pieces that have been cross-cut and ripped.

Can anyone recommend from experience a router bit that does a nice job on 3/4″ flooring?


And got the following answer:

These are usually 2 separate bits. Setting one at a router depth to cut the grove and the other to set at a different depth to cut the tongue on one side , turning the board to cut the other side
Available where good tools are sold. And yes, using a router table works the best. GL

lester asked how to cut tongue and groove in lumber?

And got the following answer:

There are router bits made for this, Best to have a router and router table to run the stock through.
A planer to get the wood sizing the same is a big help. Cuts down on the final sanding.. GL

Kristin C asked Ripping and routing prefinished hardwood flooring?

1. If I use a router bit to cut a tongue on my prefinished hardwood flooring, won’t I end up with nicks on the prefinished surface?
2. Should I precut a shallow groove in the prefinished top surface before I route in the tongue?
3. Would an 80-tooth blade like this Forrest Chopmaster be a good candidate for a smooth rip if I need to cut a groove?:
So, use tape in conjunction with the router?

In answer to your question, the idea behind cutting a groove first is that a perpendicular cut through the prefinished surface with the table saw seems less likely than the router to mar the prefinished surface (where the microbevel would normally be).

Thanks for the ideas!

And got the following answer:

The painters tape trick over the finish works very well. I don’t see why you would need to precut a groove. Just make 2-3 passes with the router. Don’t try to cut the entire amount in a single pass. The Forrest blade is very high end blade. You can get by with a 40-60 tooth blade for ripping and not spend nearly that much. But, the Forrest will do a VERY good job.

fye asked best joints for gluing boards together for a wider board?

More than 1 suggestion is appreciated; I know a lot of people will say that biscuit joints are strong, but I don’t have a biscuit joiner.

Will be used as a table top.

And got the following answer:

If you have a table saw, then a spline is a good choice. To make a spline joint, you will cut a groove into the edge of the board, and cut a small spline to fit inside both halves. When running the lumber through the table saw, its a good practice to keep the surface that will be the top face, against the fence – you’ll have less trouble with varying board thicknesses that way, as your dado will be indexed from the same surface on both pieces of wood. When you make the spline, leave it slightly narrower than the total gap – for example, if the spline is 3/4″ wide, I would make the dado 7/16″ deep, to allow for a little glue pocket.

If you have a router, then a finger joint bit, or other tongue & groove bit will be a good choice. The more surface area you have, the stronger the joint will be… a finger joint edge will be stronger than a simple tongue & groove. A simple tongue and groove can be done on a table saw too.

If all you have is a drill, then use dowels. Grooved dowels will hold better than smooth, and again, drill the dowel hole just a little bit deeper than the dowel length.

I’d recommend Titebond 2 for this type of gluing. I’ve used it commercially for years, making up all kinds of wood products and furniture. The wood will break elsewhere before the glue joint will fail.

A finger joint router bit will run upwards of $90. I wouldn’t purchase one if I were only going to use it one time. A stile/rail bit set will work, and you’d be more likely to get more use out of those, than just a finger joint bit (they’re used to make cabinet doors).
I prefer stacking dado blades as opposed to ‘dial’ sets.
If you’re going with dowels, get a kit with the jig to drill them.

One final note – if you have a good clean edge on the boards, you CAN get away with just gluing them edge to edge. You just have to be more careful about getting the surface aligned properly.

Wipe off any excess glue with a damp rag, and you’ll save yourself some time scraping the joints later.

Email me if you’d like to go into this in more detail, I’ve had alot of practice, hehehe

Here are some links to check out –

Have Fun